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Carbon, nature and packaging at heart of European cosmetics commitment

Cosmetic and personal care companies, including Colgate Palmolive, L’Oreal, LVMH and Unilever are backing a European initiative to improve sustainability, focusing on climate, nature and packaging. 

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Commit for our planet aims to reduce the cosmetic sector's environmental footprint. Image by Mareefe from Pixabay.
Commit for our planet aims to reduce the cosmetic sector's environmental footprint. Image by Mareefe from Pixabay.

The industry association, Cosmetics Europe, has been working for two years with its members to develop Commit for our Planet, a programme that will be freely accessible to all companies involved in making personal care and cosmetic products and ingredients. The emphasis of the initiative is ‘stepping up together’ to make a real difference. 

 

Consumers should get to hear about the initiative as companies that have made the commitment are being encouraged to promote their participation to their customers. 

 

At launch there are some big names yet to sign up, including Chanel, Estee Lauder, GSK, J&J and P&G. Cosmetics Europe says: “This initiative is an ongoing process, hence we did not envisage that all companies would join in one go.” However, there are already a number of companies that are not members of the association, and some small and medium sized companies that have made the commitment. 

Measuring and making meaningful progress

Companies signing up to the scheme will have to measure and report meaningful progress, working to keep greenhouse gas emissions below the 1.5C temperature rise limit set in the Paris Agreement. The initiative also references science-based targets for nature impacts, including land, water and biodiversity, related to ingredients sourcing, operations and use.

 

The association has developed several tools to support the effort, including a greenhouse gas emissions calculator, and guidance and data for nature-related issues and packaging. The programme references the importance of existing initiatives and EU targets for packaging. 

 

Cosmetics Europe will report on the overall action each year; it will also evolve the sustainability commitments to reflect changing demands from society, planetary needs, and alignment with EU standards.

 

What companies are doing

Several businesses talked about the opportunities and challenges of sustainability during the launch of the initiative. Christian Ader, chief operating officer of La Biosthetique, a global manufacturer of hair and skin care, and make up products, said the company saw opportunities in being sustainable. As well as being good for humans and the world, and benefiting customers, he said taking action had motivated people working across the company, as the sustainability programme had been integrated into teams across business and become part of everyone’s job.  

 

However, he said, when the company’s programme began in 2018, getting science-based data on which to build sustainability action had been challenging. For example, the company had to build a new tool to track carbon emissions, including during use of its products (known as scope 3 emissions). 

 

Dagmar Sanderink, sustainability coordinator at Keune Haircosmetics, a medium-sized company, started working on its sustainability programme last year. Again, she said it was important to involve employees to get commitment and motivation. She also said that setting clear targets has been important as it shone a light on where the company would be in five or ten years, and beyond.

 

Mariana Montoliu, sustainability project manager, Natura Bissé, talked about the challenge of aligning the quality of some types of sustainable packaging with high-end products; and Joachim Kremer, Henkel’s senior manager global sustainability, noted that “sustainability always comes at a price’, adding that although consumers expect companies to behave more sustainably, but in most cases they were not willing to pay more for products.

What will be reported?

Transparency is an important element of the project, says Cosmetics Europe. The association will develop a reporting structure to ensure it can publish information on progress annually. To start with, it expects reporting will be quantitative, with, for example, a focus on the number of companies joining and the number of commitments actively being worked on. In the mid-to-long term, it would like to develop more qualitative reporting, so that it can measure and demonstrate collective impact. However, it is still trying to work out the structure for this reporting system. 

 

Ocki’s Get the knowledge: How to make better beauty product choices article highlights a number of sustainability issues facing the sector including:

  • Human rights linked to the mining of mica.
  • Biodiversity linked to deforestation for palm oil plantations.
  • The use of ingredients, both synthetic and natural, that are safe for people and the environment.
  • Minimal packaging, packaging that is recycled and recyclable.
  • Verified information on carbon, water and resource footprints. 

Reducing overall consumption is also tricky for cosmetic and personal care companies, as business models are usually based on selling more product or encouraging more use. Other than recycling packaging, products consumed are generally washed down the drain.  Some companies offer refills and concentrates, others are promoting more conscious consumption and reduced use. But with hygiene products, this is a challenge, as a certain amount is needed for the product to be effective.

 

Check it out

 

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Emma Chynoweth

Emma Chynoweth

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